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MAGNETIC TRAPS - WET METHOD - OTHER METHODS


### ORMUS WET METHOD: How to extract ORMUS by PRECIPITATION in SEA WATER...


## Personal Adventure in the Ormes from the sea ..., May 2007 (form MDG the webmaster)

For sure I had to try this Ormes, because of so many fantastic reports, and thanks God, it's GOOD. Now I'm taking 2-4 times a day (once before sleep, and once when waking up, plus sometime 1-2 times along the day, as far as possible from meals, for fast absorbtion and to be sure it will not be spoiled at contact with food) a small amount of powder from the sea, since beginning of March 07 (2 full months now), and I'm very satisfied.

First I tried the Ormes from a simple Magnetic Trap I made; the tap water has some Ormes inside, but the strong chlorine test, here, render it very difficult to drink. So once I borrowed a car and went to the jungle waterfall 40 kms from here, and I processed its water, to collect 1 gallon of concentrate. This was wonderfull ! Very powerfull ! I get bursts of light/joy coming from the area of my stomach, exploding in the direction of my head, giving me big smile and flood of happiness; as driving the way back, I found it a bit difficult to control (this bursts of joy) and to keep the car on the road, so I decided not to take Ormes before driving anymore !

I'd like to go again collect some Ormes from this pure water, because the effects are much different from the sea water extract ! But I am too busy and have no personal car...

The precipitate from the local South China Sea gave us 200 grams of dryed powder from 100 liters processed following the Wet Method (with NaHO). From the 100 litres we get around 4 litres of highly concentrate milky solution, that gave us this 200 grams of very white powder after 3 hours of drying on a gas cooker, and grinding to fine grain. So we can get 2kg of powder per meter cube of this sea water.

- Making Liquid Plant Fertilizer
I diluted 35 Spoon of Sodium Hydroxide (NaHo, Lye) in 10 Litres of Reverse Osmosis Water (this RO water has less than 80ppm), and added it slowly, per 1/2 litre, while stiring the sea water at 'vortex formation speed', by hand. The PH, starting from 8.2 (sea water alone), went up to 9.7 with the first half liter of Lye Mix, and stood there til around 8 liters were versed inside, then the PH went slowly, 1 decimal by one decimal, to 10.4. At that moment when I added a bit more mix, it went up to 11.3, what is already too high ! Never mind, I'll use this batch as fertilizer, and will make another one for dinking purpose; and I'll be carefull when the PH goes above 10 to 10.5, to add Lye Mix very little by little, to be sure not to go higher than 10.78, as recommended. Actually, having a cheap PH meter, 35 Euros, with only one decimal (but having temperature adjustment), I can't be so precise as 10.78, so I'll stop adding Lye Mix when it will reach 10.4 to 10.6. Up to this PH the precipitate is already very generous, and the effect on plants or as drink are already very GOOD !
Using for plants to grow faster and bigger, effect visible within 1-3 weeks.

- Making the Energizer/Medecine Drink:
I diluted 2 spoons of Pure Lye Chrystals in one liter of R.O. water, and added it slowly to 5 Litres of Microporous Korean Ceramic filtered local Sea Water. After this liter of Lye Mix finished, the PH was just starting to increase above 10.2, so I made more Lye Mix, and after adding 120ml, the PH was up to 10.7, so I stopped. After few hours the precipitate was down the pot, so I siphoned out the top water, then replaced it with R.O. water, I made it 3 times, to take out the salt. It gaves me 1 liter of very white milky solution, that test like calcium powder on the tongue, and give the Ormes' 'strong coffee effect', feeling under high tension for a few hours ... can't sleep in that state at day time (taking it just before night sleep is the best)!

- The major effects of the ORMES from the Sea Water, on me, are:
- Easyer and earlier wake up every morning, day naps much shorter.
- Feeling better and younger; I think I came back to at list 10 years ago, I feel I walk like when I was much adolescent sometime ! I feel lighter !
- After continual stretchings (I always feel I need to stretch my back spin/muscles), I feel my body is transforming a bit itself, mutating ... mutating in what, I don't know :)) ...
- I can tape much faster on the computer than before, and memorize longer parts of sentences when I transcript texts for this website. I unerstand deeper. I work for hours without seeing the time going, and much more work is done everyday :) Also I never feel lazy to go and work each time.
- I can go for a 30 kilometers bicycle ride (at full gear for 90 minutes, plane ground = 20kmh/hour average speed) and be ready to work after only 30 minutes of rest. And with almost no pain in the legs ! Before I would need 2 hours of rest, have pains, and the next day would be dificult, but now, I feel much less tired, less pain, and next day it's almost forgoten ... while riding, I also don't feel tired like before.
- Some time I feel I hear much better, I'm more aware of what is going one in my surrounding environment, but nothing supernatural yet !
- No persistant feeling of 'third eye open', telepathy or other paranormal abilities, but may be sometime strange effects, and for sure different feelings...
- Ormes are the better 'Energy Booster' I never ate (natural one of course), and the best is that we don't accumulate tiredness; before, drinking coffee for 'Energy Booster', after few days I had to rest much, feeling like the tiredness had accumulate during that time, and I would feel completely exhausted. I don't feel this problem with Ormes.

- Only one problem I found, is the 'hot' effect; 15 to 30 minutes after absorbtion of the powder, if I'm not at rest, I feel my temperature increasing in my head and my chest, and at contact with other people I found myself much more 'hot' and strong. I feel like I become wild, savage, like a Tiger ... that's easy to control after we are aware of it anyway.
- Also if I take too mush powder at a time, I can get headhache, and especially one time, at the beginning, I took a too large dose, and get ONE WEEK of very strong headhaches and really had to stretch strongly all the time, feeling my body was 'growing', transforming; all along my spine I was feeling 'activity', high energy accumulated ...
- Of course, if I want to drink coffee again, I'll have to stop ORMES. One tea spoon of Sea Extract gives me the effect of 3 coffees !

- Eating the powder:
The amount of powder to take is so small that I found nothing to measure it (like a very small pintch of salt that we put on the tongue). I think 5 grams of powder will last at least 1 year, may be 2 !

Actually I was interrested by the Ormes just for the 'better health and energy effect', to be able to work more, and the results are 100 % positive. It's a success for me.

For the hundreds of year of lifespan, the teleportation ability through the Space-Time, and the meeting with the Enlighted Scientists, I am not expecting anything. Just the 'medical/health' part attracted me.

# Small Maths:
- South China Sea (near 'Paradisiac' islands) gave us 200g of powder from 100L of water ; it's 2kg per m3 (1,000L)
The Earth Sea Water volume is 1Billion of kilometer cube ; 1 km3 is 1 milliom meter cube
So our planet contain 1 Million of Billions of Meter Cube of Sea Water, what is 2 Million of Billions of Kilo of Ormes powder !!

It's 2 Trillion Tons of Ormes white powder in Sea Waters (if concentration in water is same everywhere)

- Hudson cured cancer with 2 mg intravenously per day per person for 25 days = 2 mg x 25 days = 50 mg (milligrams)
1 kg of powder, from 500 Litres of Sea Water, could cure 20,000 cancers (twenty thousands)
The Ormes from one Kilometer Cube (1million m3) of Sea Water could cure 40 Billion Cancers ...

If the Sea White Powder had the same healing effects that Hudson's Powder, only 1ml of precipitate would be enough, to inject daily !! (2g of powder per liter of sea water = 2mg per 1ml of sea water)

- At 500 grams of powder per Hectare for fertilizing (10,000 m2) per year to obtain enormous plants production,
The Ormes contained in the Sea Waters, could fertilize 2 Trillion Hectare during 2,000 years (two thousands years)

So, what are we waiting to use it, it's so simple and cheap ?!?!


- Is there a lot of atoms in 1g of powder ?

Ex. with Hydrogen: one hydrogen atom is about 1 amu ; One gram is about 600,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 amu (that's 600 sextillion, or a 6 followed by 23 zeros).
Ex. with Gold: one gold atom is about 197 amu ; one gram is about 3,000,000,000,000,000,000,000 atoms of gold ; 3 Billion of Trillion atoms of Gold per gram of Gold.
Electrons are so light that you can usually ignore their mass relative to the atom as a whole. A proton has about 2000 times the mass of an electron. from http://www.colorado.edu/physics/2000/periodic_table/atomic_mass.html

- How many atoms are contained in 2mg of 'Hudson's White Gold Powder' that Doctors injected daily to patients to cure them from Cancer, Aids, Arthritis, Osteporosis, ...:

=> 2mg of Hydrogen will count around 1.2 sextillion atoms of Hydrogen (1,200,000,000,000,000,000,000 atoms, or 1,2 Billion of Trillions of atoms).
=> 2mg of Hudson's White Gold Powder will count around 6 Million of Trillions of Gold atoms (6,000,000,000,000,000,000 atoms of Gold in 2mg of powder of Gold)

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- Hydrogen having Atomic Mass around 1 amu, Oxygen around 16 amu, Sodium around 23:
A molecule of Water would weight H2=2 + O=16 = 18 amu ; Hydrogen being around 11% of the total Water Molecule Mass, and Oxygen 89%.
A molecule of Sodium Hydroxide would weight Na=23 + H=1 + O=16 = 40 amu ; Hydrogen being around 2.5% of the total Mass, Sodium 57.5% and Oxygen 40%.

- Since we add around 3 grams of Sodium Hydroxide (NaHO) per litre of sea water to precipitate the powder, how much is the weight of Hydrogen in the 2 grams of precipitate of Hydride Metals that we get per liter of sea water ?
3 grams of NaHO contain 2.5% of Hydrogen = 0.075 gr of Hydrogen.

- Then we can know the weight of our ormes in this 2 grams of precipitate obtained per liter of sea water, and confirm it with the weight of the powder after anhiliation through red hot heating.
2 grams of precipitate less 0.075 gr of Hydrogen = 1.925 grams of Ormes (I had no means to confirm weight after red hot heating)

- If in his High-Spin state an Orme weight only 59% of its metallic weight, 1.925 gr of Ormes represent 3.26 grams equivalent metals.

- Like Oxygen is said to have also an 'high-spin' monoatomic state, it should be also under white powder form, or does it still under gas form? White powder of Oxygen Orme ... precipitated with NaHO, giving Hydride-Oxygen , HO, under solid form ?!? Mysteries ...

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# Ocean Water Process, by Barry Carter http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/ocean.htm

A colleague and his friend collected slightly over 250 gallons of ocean water from a beach south of Astoria, Oregon on April 8th. This water was put into 55 gallon HDPE barrels using buckets to scoop from two to three feet of surf water. Both gentlemen were wearing wet suits. About half of the barrels were filled in the truck. The other half were filled in the water and rolled to the truck. They were rolled into the back of the truck using a ramp. This took most of the strength of these two gentlemen.

The barrels had previously been used for hydrogen peroxide and some remained in them when the ocean water was added. This might have helped to disinfect the water.
My colleague brought the 250 gallons of ocean water to my house at about 6 pm on April 10th, 2000. We filtered all of the water through an under sink type of filter using a Culligan D-10 carbon impregnated paper cartridge rated at 5 micron (nominal) hole size.

The water was pumped through the filter using a 12 volt Sure-Flo pump and then passed through a Morgan Vortrap before flowing into empty, clean 55 gallon barrels.

The inner vortex water was directed into an HDPE plastic jug through the center of a speaker magnet in order to prevent ORMUS gasses from escaping the jug. The flow from the trap was approximately as illustrated below.

It took us about four hours to filter all of the water. After filtering about 180 gallons of the water the flow became sluggish and the trap quit working. At about 200 gallons the pump got hot and started cutting out due to the thermal overheat switch. We checked for kinks in our hoses and found none. We concluded that the filter was clogged, so we changed the filter and everything started working well again.

Since our water was collected on the beach it was quite murky and had lots of sand in it. We would expect a filter used in the open ocean to last a lot longer. The water coming out of the filter and out of the Vortrap was quite clear and looked clean. A 5 micron filter is not fine enough to filter out all micro-organisms, though.

We collected a little over 9 gallons of trap water from all of the 250 gallons of ocean water. We tried two different setups for the filter and Vortrap. Our first setup had the clean water barrel on its side as illustrated below.

Our second setup worked better as it allowed us to completely fill the catch barrel. It also should produce better trap water as the good stuff has to go up against gravity to get into its catch container. The second setup is illustrated below.


Second setup showing filter, Vortrap and both catch containers


I put fifty gallons of the filtered ocean water in a 55 gallon HDPE drum which had the top cut out of it. I mixed one can of Red Devil lye (510 grams) with one gallon of distilled water and slowly dripped this lye water into the ocean water while stirring the ocean water with the electric stirrer described at: http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/ocean.htm

This brought the pH of the ocean water up to 10.6 but it dropped to around 10.0 over night. I continued to add lye water on a daily basis till I got the ocean water to hold at 10.6. Fifty gallons of ocean water precipitated out to about ten gallons of precipitate over night.


Ocean water precipitate at the bottom of 55 gallon HDPE barrel


After this precipitate was washed I took one liter of it and vacuum filtered it. The filtrate was about the consistency of warm butter and weighed about 53 grams. If I had filtered all of the precipitate from the 50 gallons I probably would have gotten about 9.5 kilograms of filtrate.
I dried the filtrate for a couple hours at 250 degrees Fahrenheit in a toaster oven and got 8.7 grams of dry powder. If I had dried all of the precipitate from the 50 gallons I would have gotten about 1.56 kilograms of dry powder.

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## No Bullshit C-11, http://www.ormus.ws/ormus/CW/No%20Bullshit%20C-11.html

Most people have found Barry Carter's write up on the Wet method [to produce C-11] so confusing & difficult to understand while leaving out some of the simple things one should do (and that's the way he intended it). That they don't even try to do it. I thought that it was about time that somebody took all the bullshit out, and stated what you need to know in simple terms concisely. So here you have it. If you still have questions and don't want to follow the simple instructions, then read his way of putting it. (please excuse the harsh terms, I'm just tired of answering Emails from people that can't follow simple instructions. People if a material is specified, like glass containers, it is done for good reason). People should also understand that Barry Carter was not the inventor of this procedure, he just typed out what he had been told, I spoke with the inventor of the procedure and learned what Barry Carter had left out. He did leave out some parts for a good reason, some people will have a hard time dealing with the stuff that the second part of the procedure makes.

First you need to get a few materials together, so here's the list with most possible substitutes included.

- (1) pH meter, the cheep pocket models by Hanna work great, just make sure to get one that has built in temperature compensation and some calibration solutions with it.

- (2) One Gallon glass containers, [as an alternative you can use HDPE plastic if you must, but you might as well know that plastic will add contaminates to your finished product].

Some real Sea salt or fresh sea water obtained from an area far from shipping lanes in an unpolluted area of the ocean far from shore. Most people prefer sea salt from the Dead Sea or from the Salt Lake in Utah. [Get a lot if you want to make a lot of C-11.] Get your salt without perfumes or added anti caking agents. Also get it without being purified [reconstituted and re dried].

Good, pure water, about 5 gallons per one gallon batch is needed. Distilled water works, and R/O water is preferable.

- (1) A stirrer, one long enough to reach the bottom of your glass container. It should be made of glass, but you can use plastic. Metal is a big no no, and so is wood [unless you like contaminates].

- (1) Small container of NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide). You can obtain this from assorted sources, including chemical supply houses, or you can pick up some Red Devil Lye at the super market. (My experience is that the Red Devil Lye is as pure as the stuff coming from most chemical supply houses, and a whole lot cheaper). Please take care with the Lye water made from mixing Sodium Hydroxide and water; it is very caustic and can cause death if ingested, and sever burns to the skin if exposed to it. As such, it is advisable to wear gloves and eye protection and label containers with this in it.

- (1) Quart Mason Jar or other glass container.

- (1) Eye dropper, preferably a glass one with a rubber bulb on the end.

- (1) Siphon hose, preferably HDPE plastic, and about 4 feet long.

# Now the how to do it part.

1). Take one of the gallon glass containers and pour in 3/4 of one gallon of pure water. [The water should be at room temp.] If you are using real sea water, skip steps 1 through 4.

2). Slowly add Sea Salt while stirring. When the salt no longer dissolves, stop adding salt and give it a 10 minuet break to let excess salt settle out. While you are taking a break, read the instructions that came with your pH meter and calibrate it.

3). Add 1 cup of pure water to the Sea water container.

4). Use your Siphon hose to transfer about 2/3 of the water with the dissolved salt to the second one gallon container.

5). Take your quart mason jar and fill it 3/4 of the way to the top with pure water.

6). Add NaOH to the water in the mason jar, about 4 heaping spoon full's is enough.

7). Stir the NaOH in the mason jar until it is completely dissolved. [Make more if you run out in later steps]

8). Add droppers of the NaOH solution to the Sea water in the gallon container while stirring. [always stir when adding NaOH]

9). Keep adding NaOH solution until the water just starts to become cloudy. [take your time and do not rush getting to this point, patience has it's rewards]

10). Use the pH meter to check the pH of the Sea Water in the container you have been adding NaOH to. The pH should be less than 11.00 on your meter.

11). Continue adding NaOH while stirring until your pH is in the area of 10.78 (you should check the pH often to insure that you do not over shoot the target and risk undesirable contamination.)

12). Once the desirable pH has been reached, let the precipitate settle out for a minimum of 8 hours, preferably over night or longer.

13). Siphon off the excess liquid above the precipitate at the bottom with your siphon hose taking care not to disturb the precipitate.

14). Add pure water to the precipitate and let sit undisturbed for a minimum of 8 hours, preferably over night or longer.

15). Repeat steps 13 & 14 two or more times.

16). Siphon off the excess water once more and transfer your remaining precipitate [C-11] to a suitable storage container [preferably glass] that can be closed.

Now, if you want something that is generally considered to be good for you and mild in effects go to step 17).a if you want something that is truly mostly orme go to 17).b and continue.

17).a Put away your supplies and enjoy your C-11. Note: it is best to consume fresh C-11, so making up a years supply at once is not always desirable. Your C-11 should be stored in the dark far away from electrical devices and magnetic fields of any kind.

I Hope that you enjoyed the 'No Bullshit C-11' procedure. Your C-11 is reported to contain 11 different Hydrides of metals that can develop into orme in your body over time and lots of trace minerals that most people are lacking in there diets along with ample laxative. Don't be fooled, there is no real ORME in step 17).a C-11, but Gold Hydride [AuH] does turn into Gold ORME once consumed, in a period between 9 to 13 months in most cases.

17).b Now repeat the washing step of 16) at least 3 more times, the objective here it to get out all the salt, taste test it and see if it is salty, if it is salty, then wash it again until it is not salty.

18). [In this step, you must use a glass container.] Next place your glass container of precipitate over a very low flame, the objective is to heat the water, but not to boil it. Now let it dry very slowly and watch it when you are getting close to 3/4 of the water evaporated, if all the precipitate has disappeared, then you now have what is known as the elixir of life, if the precipitate has not disappeared, then you need to add more water and continue letting it evaporate. When all the precipitate has disappeared, you have converted all the material to orme. The water you use will contain deuterium, also known as heavy hydrogen. This is the key element in the transformation from HAu [gold hydride] to orme gold.

Next you will either want to consume some of it or prepare it for maximum effect by charging and imprinting it. I Hope that you enjoyed the 'No Bullshit C-11' procedure.

Love & Light of our Creator, to all. CosmicWizard@ormus.ws

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# ORMUS CHEMICAL PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES, http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/ormus/ormus2.htm

This document may not be reproduced except in its entirety, and without changes. Before trying any of the procedures described in this document, we advise you to thoroughly read this document several times.
This document was created by a group of people who believe that this information is of inestimable value to humanity and should be made widely available as soon as possible. The information here is declared to be in the public domain and we wish that it not become the sole property of any individual or group.
Here we describe some simple ways of making ORMUS so that readers can begin true scientific and intuitive experiments with these materials.
All of these methods are experimental. The following information is presented to promote scientific research into the nature of these materials. Although these methods are based on our best knowledge at this time, further scientific research may prove some of these processes or theories to be inaccurate.

DISCLAIMER
The processes described here have not all been tested extensively. We do not guarantee the procedures in this document, nor the results obtained by using them. To the extent that you use or implement these procedures or the products thereof, you do so at your own risk. In no event will the authors of this document be liable to you, anyone else, or any organization or government, for any damages arising from your use, or your inability to use these procedures or the product thereof. Apply these procedures at your own risk.

VERIFICATION
The material made by some of these methods has been tested by an independent lab using X-ray fluorescence and photo spectrometry to identify the emission spectra of m-state materials. (The lab prefers to remain anonymous). The m-state spectral emissions signature was a broad, flat band rather than discrete lines. The test also showed a significant amount of calcium and magnesium, but no toxins were evident in well-washed material made from unpolluted ocean water.
To further prove that these materials are a different state of the precious elements mentioned above, it is possible to electroplate these elements out as precious metals.

People familiar with Hudson's process claim that the materials produced using these methods are similar to Hudson's ORME materials.

INGESTION
We do not recommend the ingestion of these materials since so little is known about them. This information is being provided so that scientific inquiry can commence into the nature of these materials. We realize that, despite recommendations to the contrary, some people will ingest these materials. With this in mind we offer the following information to minimize any possible adverse effects from ingesting these materials. Please read the WARNING and CAUTION sections.
Some people have ingested the m-state materials made by these methods. They suggest that benefits are most likely when dosage is kept small.

Three methods of making ORMUS are described in this document: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method. For the materials extracted by the wet and dry procedures, one teaspoon of material, morning and evening, has been found by them to be not harmful over several weeks' time. A much smaller dose, on the order of a few drops a day, would be more appropriate for the material produced by the boiling gold method. We believe that the m-state may be homeopathic, so a much smaller dose may be the safest -- such as 1/64 teaspoon diluted in one quart of pure water, taken two or three ounces once or twice a day.

David Hudson gave some information on dosage in his Dallas speech at: http://monatomic.earth.com/david-hudson/1995-02-dallas-toc.html

WHITEGOLD WEB PAGE
You can find a discussion forum on the WhiteGold Web page. There you can post comments and questions on these procedures, and on ORMUS in general.
WhiteGold Web page: http://www.zz.com/WhiteGoldWeb/

OVERVIEW
This document describes three methods of producing ORMUS: the WET method, the DRY method, and the BOILING GOLD method.
All three methods use a chemical lab technique called "measuring pH." The pH of a solution is a measure of its acid/base ratio. You may remember testing pH with litmus paper in high school. pH values less than pH 7 indicate an acid, like distilled white vinegar. pH 7 is neutral, like pure water. Greater than pH 7 is alkaline, like lye.

ORMUS precipitates between pH 8.5 and 10.78.
The WET method produces the least "effective" material but is relatively simple to perform.

Here is the basic WET method in brief. It will be discussed later in detail:
1. Start with drinkable water or clean sea water.
2. Slowly add a solution of lye mixed with water to raise the pH above 8.5 but no higher than 10.78.
3. A white fluffy precipitate will form which you should allow to settle overnight.
4. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
5. Thoroughly wash the precipitate. It is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

Here is the DRY method in brief:
1. Start with dry mineral powder.
2. Boil it in lye water at pH 12.
3. Filter and discard the precipitate.
4. Add distilled white vinegar or hydrochloric acid (HCl) to the filtered liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
5. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
7. Wash the precipitate. That is calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, and a small amount of m-state material.

And here is the BOILING GOLD method in brief [the BOILING GOLD METHOD has never worked for those who have tried it and we don't recommend its use]:
1. Boil gold dust in a lye solution.
2. Filter out any solids.
3. Add distilled white vinegar or HCl to the remaining liquid to lower the pH to 8.5.
4. Let the precipitate settle overnight.
5. Remove the liquid above the precipitate.
6. Wash the precipitate. It is almost pure gold m-state material.

NECESSARY SUPPLIES TO MAKE M-STATE
A glass or stainless steel pot. If you use stainless-steel pots, check for steel particles in your precipitate. Although unlikely, this problem may occur if you use large amounts of HCl to lower the pH. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.
Distilled water from a grocery store.
A stainless steel spatula or knife for stirring, from a grocery store. Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and will poison you.
A few glass jars. Tall skinny ones work best.
Lye (sodium hydroxide or NaOH). We will use the term "lye" in this document rather than "sodium hydroxide" or "NaOH" since it is shorter and more familiar to most people. Grocery store lye, such as Lewis Red Devil Lye, is not as pure and uncontaminated as laboratory or food-grade lye. We strongly recommend that laboratory or food grade sodium hydroxide be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since grocery store lye may contain dangerous contaminants. Note: Virtually no lye will be present in the final product so it will be safe to ingest. In any case, lye is not toxic, and it is not caustic when sufficiently diluted (as in these methods).
HCl (hydrochloric acid or muriatic acid). We will use the term "HCl" in this document rather than "hydrochloric acid" or "muriatic acid" since it is shorter. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but laboratory, electronic or food-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. We strongly recommend that laboratory, electronic or food grade hydrocholoric acid be used if the m-state is intended for ingestion since muriatic acid from a hardware store may contain dangerous contaminants. The presence of iron as a contaminant in the acid may interfere with the m-state materials in some applications.
Three eyedropper bottles from a pharmacy. An alternative to eyedroppers is squirt bottles made of HDPE. Find them at a natural foods store or other store which sells bulk liquid products like vegetable oils or lotions.
A large 50 cc plastic syringe from a veterinary supply shop or a lab-supply house. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.
pH paper or a pH meter. You can get pH paper (pH 1 to 12) from a lab-supply company or a mining supply store. Use new paper because old paper becomes inaccurate. Some suppliers are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.

pH PAPER OR pH METER?
Some experimenters say not to rely on a pH meter because its readings vary with temperature and ionization. Also, a meter costs much more than pH paper. Many pH meter probes can be damaged by very strong acids or alkalis. But some say that a pH meter is essential, for these reasons:
pH paper cannot track rapid changes in pH.
pH paper does not resolve pH readings finely enough. It's hard to tell the difference between pH 9.5, 10.0, and 11.5.
pH meters are best used to get accurate readings between pH 8.5 and 10.78, which is the main range of concern in these methods.
pH meters can spot check any reading with a standard buffer solution.
a pH meter is more convenient.
Use only a meter that has an automatic temperature-correcting function up to 100 degrees C.

SAFETY TIPS
Clean your containers so that you'd feel safe drinking out of them. Boil containers, syringes, siphons and so on before use to sterilize them.

CAUTION!!
Lye can damage the eyes by rendering the cornea opaque, a form of eye damage that is irreparable. Lye can burn skin, clothes and eyes. Work near a sink, faucet, or other source of wash water. You might keep a spray bottle of distilled white vinegar handy to use against spills.
If you spill lye on your clothes or body, immediately wash it off with lots of water. When working with lye, avoid touching your face or rubbing your eyes. Do not handle lye around food. Use adequate ventilation such as a range hood. Do not dump waste water on the ground. Lye is generally safe to put down the drain, but don't mix it with any acid that may be in the drain as it can react explosively.
When working with lye, please wear goggles or a full-face visor (an industrial face protector), neoprene gloves, and a PVC lab apron. Sources for this safety clothing are in the Appendix near the end of this document.
Keep children and pets away from the work area, and do not leave it unattended if children or pets are around.

Glass can shatter with hot liquids. Pour boiling liquid from your heating container into a stainless steel mixing bowl to cool before pouring the liquid into a glass container.
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# THE WET METHOD , STARTING MATERIALS FOR THE WET METHOD
Some starting materials produce a lot of precipitate, while others do not. Listed below are materials that have been shown to produce some precipitate from the WET method:
Some municipal drinking water
Some hot springs water without sulfur
Trace Minerals Inland Sea Water
Urine
Some lake or river water whose bed or course is limestone.
Some well water. Ground water is probably more likely to contain m-state than surface water (except for sea water).
Sea water and sea water reconstituted from certain brands of sea salt, especially from the Great Salt Lake.
Dead Sea water.
Certain brands of unrefined sea salt are as good as sea water: Celtic Gray Sea Salt (from health food stores) and Lima Atlantic Sea Salt (from some health food stores). Add distilled water and use the WET method. Filter the scum first.

The WET method performed on ocean or Dead Sea water produces eleven different m-state elements.

The following materials are ranked in order from most to least m-state content:
1. Dead Sea water
2. Salt Lake water
3. Ocean water
4. Well water

Listed below are materials that have been found to produce little or no precipitate from the WET method:
Water from some alkali lakes (pH above 8.5).
Hot springs with sulfur (because sulfur reduces m-state to metal).
Mineral-free lake or river water
Dead Sea mineral salts that contain sulfur or sulfates, such as "Sea Mineral Bath from the Dead Sea" by Dead Sea Works Ltd. for Sea Minerals Co., and Trace Minerals Research "ConcenTrace Trace Mineral Drops" from the Great Salt Lake.

For the following methods to work, some researchers claim that magnesium or magnesium hydroxide -- Mg(OH)2 -- must be present in the starting material. (Since the Boiling Gold method is effective without any magnesium, this claim will need to be tested.) Sea water already has Mg(OH)2, so you don't need to add it to sea water. Try your water first. If you don't get any precipitate, you might add a teaspoon per gallon of Epsom salts to the starting material for its magnesium. If you do add Epsom salts, the magnesium from them will be a large portion of the precipitate.

WARNING!!
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED
The following problems have been encountered by some folks who have made m-state for consumption:
Some people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state made from sea water collected at a marina. This water contained high levels of lead and other contaminants.
Other people have gotten quite sick from consuming m-state materials which were made improperly. These materials were made without the use of pH test paper or meters and the resulting material contained toxic metals. Please remember that old pH paper can become inaccurate.
People have gotten sick from consuming m-state materials which contained bacteria because they were not sterilized or stored properly.
It is possible to bring the pH of your source material up too quickly, especially if you use lye in too high a concentration. This could result in local areas of very high pH within your solution. These high pH areas could allow toxic metals to precipitate and mix with your desired precipitate.
M-state platinum might be considered toxic by some since it makes you quite ill if you consume alcohol. No one has reported this effect from consuming m-state from sea water.
Some people have used TeflonŽ coated aluminum sauce pans for heating lye or lye water. The TeflonŽ got scratched and the aluminum started dissolving in the lye water producing hydrogen gas which could have exploded. The liquid was contaminated with aluminum which is a poison.

AVOIDING PROBLEMS
Use sea water, reconstituted sea water made from sea salt or Dead Sea salt, or salt lake water. In general, start with a clean and deep source of water. Some people have gone out to sea in boats to collect sea water from 100 feet deep.
Generally avoid water that has lead, arsenic or other toxic elements in it. Start with water that is drinkable except for salt content.
Conduct an elemental and toxic analysis of questionable starting-material sources (such as seawater collected close to the shore, or near sources of industrial waste runoff).
Boiling in lye water kills bacteria but it does not destroy toxic metals or chemicals in your source water.
Follow these instructions and slowly change the pH of your solution.
Avoid water with sulfur or sulfates in it because such water produces little or no m-state precipitate.
Never use aluminum containers or utensils because aluminum will react with acids like HCl and alkalis like lye, and could poison you.

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## HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE, http://www.lyghtforce.com/WhiteGold/ormus3.htm

The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia (Mg(OH)2), which precipitates approximately around the same pH range that m-state does.

Here are four methods to separate Mg(OH)2 from m-state:
# METHOD 1:
1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution to sea water. The precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH)2.
2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and discard the liquid. This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2 precipitate.
3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you reduce the pH to 1.0 - 3.5. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a clear solution.
5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 8.5 - 8.7. The precipitate that forms should be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-state precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not precipitate until pH 9.)
Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are not going past pH 8.7.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the precipitate. It should be mostly m-state.

# METHOD 2: This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.
2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.
3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.
4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring the pH to 5 or 6.
5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should dissolve.
6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour everything into filter paper.
7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or vinegar.
8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275 degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of Mg(OH)2.

# METHOD 3:
1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F.
2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or 30% HCl. Everything which does not dissolve in m-state. This will be quite a small amount if you start with sea water. (If you mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).
3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or vinegar/m-state solution).
4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an amount of water that is at least ten times the amount of HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute distilled white vinegar for HCl).
5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.
6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of distilled water.

# METHOD 4:
1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH up to 12. The m-state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium hydroxide and the Gilcrest precipitate will not.
2. Filter out the precipitate.
3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.
4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 10.78. The resulting precipitate should be only m-state.
5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.
6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should be 9 or less before ingesting.

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# PARTING THE WET METHOD PRECIPITATES TO DETERMINE M-STATE CONSTITUENTS, http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/wm-assay.htm

The parting methods given here are the end results of much work. They were developed in an unheated space with an ambient temperature of approximately 50 DegF. Residence time adjustments may need to be made for other conditions.
Various methods were tried and gave similar results but these are the easiest to reproduce for someone with limited equipment and experience.
Various acids were tested, along with buffered solutions and ammonium salts. Ultimately, I chose the least exotic for its simplicity.

The separated fractions have very distinct color shades and textures . While no metal is produced by these procedures, the final separation of M-Iridium from M-Gold by sublimation gives more weight loss than can be accounted for by water of hydration alone (assuming Mg(OH)2 ). This supports claims made by David Hudson and the Essene.

As the separated fractions are not reduced to weighable metal, it is possible that the entire procedure is an exercise in chimerastry rather than chemistry. However, a microwave assay system which I have devised does give weighable gold metal from this material, 300% above results obtainable by any standard assay procedure.

This again gives some support to the claims of other researchers. These parting methods are offered in the hope that they may be useful and perhaps even help to open a door for discovery.

# PARTING THE WET METHOD PRECIPITATES TO DETERMINE M-STATE CONSTITUENTS

I. SEPARATION OF THE M-STATE ELEMENTS FROM Mg(OH)2

This method is based on several properties of Mg(OH)2. In a slurry magnesium hydroxide has a pH of 10.5, but, the pH drops to 9.0 when the slurry is being used to neutralize a mild acid.
This parting must be done by hand, without mechanical agitation. Otherwise it proceeds too quickly, and M-State becomes entrained with the magnesium and lost to the filtrate.
Thoroughly dried ORMUS precipitates are ground to fine powder and made into a 1.25% slurry. While stirring by hand, a 5 to 1 or weaker solution of HCl is added, a drop at a time, to bring the pH down to 8.8.
Using a well-calibrated pH meter, notice how long it takes for the slurry to rebound to 9.1, while stirring vigorously. This procedure is repeated until the rebound time is more than 60 seconds. At this point, separate the solids, dry them at 275o F and regrind to fine powder.
Replace the solids in the filtrate and proceed as before. When, once again, the rebound time between pH 8.8 and 9.1 becomes more than 60 seconds; filter, dry and grind the solids. Then replace them in the filtrate and proceed as before. When the rebound time between pH 8.8 and 9.1 becomes 90 seconds, or more, end point has been achieved.

It is postulated that when the slurry no longer strongly exhibits its original pH characteristics, the remaining solids must be something other than Mg(OH)2 . Filter and dry the solids, regrind and weigh.
Subtract this weight from the weight of the original sample. This represents the Mg(OH)2 which has gone into solution. Multiply this times .4168 to obtain the weight as Magnesium.
Note that the color of these solids is very perceptively different from the original.
A dried hydroxide precipitate from the filtrate will also differ from the original in translucency and much less resistance to pulverization in a mortar and pestle.

II. SEPARATION OF THE M-IRIDIUM AND M-GOLD FROM THE M-RHODIUM AND OTHER M-STATE ELEMENTS.

Place the ground residue from the first parting in enough water to create a .25% slurry. While stirring, add dilute HCl, a drop at a time to lower the pH to 5. Continue to do this until the rebound time between pH 5.4 and 6.4 is 120 seconds or more.
Again, it is postulated that when the slurry no longer strongly exhibits its original pH characteristics (in this case alkalinity) parting is complete. Filter and dry the solids at 275 o F, then regrind and weigh. Subtract this weight from the weight of the first parting residue.
Supposing that the lost weight represents M-Rh(OH)4 or an analogue, then the lost weight x .602 = M-Rh.

III. SEPARATION OF THE M-GOLD FROM THE M-IRIDIUM

Place the residue from the second parting in an oven at 500o F for 15 minutes, to ignite carbon. Weigh the residue. Place the residue from ignition in a retort, scorifying dish or other container capable of withstanding sustained heat at 750o C.
Place in a cold oven and raise the temperature to 750oC. Hold the temperature for 30 minutes and then turn off the oven and allow both oven and sample to cool. Weigh the residue and subtract from the original to find the lost weight.

Final calculations are as follows:
A. Supposing a compound M-Ir(OH)4 or an analog, which decomposes at 350o C to form M-IrO2 + 2H2O, the weight of the residue x .8573 would equal the weight of M-Iridium
B. Supposing a compound M-Au2(OH)6 or an analogue, that decomposes at 250o C to M-Au2O3 + 3H2O and then sublimates between 450o and 650o C.

1. Take the measured weight loss and subtract from it, the hypothecated M-Ir(OH)4 water of hydration, which is calculated as follows: retort residue x .1607 = M-Ir(OH)4 water of hydration.
2. Multiply the remaining weight loss x .7944 to obtain M-Gold.

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## ADDENDUM TO QUEST FOR THE PHILOSOPHER'S STONE http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/ormus/ormus4.htm

The document, "Quest for the Philosopher's Stone" will need periodic updates as more knowledge is gained about ORMUS. That is the purpose of this addendum. Here we can post safety advice, short announcements, and other updates.

# PERCENTAGE OF M-STATE ELEMENTS IN PRECIPITATE FROM VARIOUS SEA WATERS

- Water source Dead Sea; Gold 70%; Rhodium -; Iridium -; Magnesium 30%
- Water source Salt Lake; Gold 19%; Rhodium 30%; Iridium 5%; Magnesium 46%
- Water source Pacific; Gold 8-14%; Rhodium 30%; Iridium 6-9%; Magnesium ?

# DEAD SEA SALT MIGHT HAVE NO GILCREST PRECIPITATE :

One person tried the following experiment using Masada Dead Sea salt:

1. Made a batch of ORMUS using the wet method, going up to pH 10.5.
2. Let the precipitate settle and removed the clear liquid on top.
3. Adding lye water, ran the clear liquid up to pH 12.

Nothing else precipitated, showing that there is no Gilcrest precipitate (from toxic metals) in Masada salt. This significant experiment needs to be replicated.

# M-STATE CONTENT OF VARIOUS SEA SALTS :

4 liters of water (almost a gallon), mixed with 250 ml (about 1 cup) of the following salts, produced the following yield of wet precipitate:

- Source Dead Sea; Brand Dead Sea Products Mineral Care Mineral Bath Salts; Wet Yield (ml) 2220
- Source Dead Sea; Brand Masada; Wet Yield (ml) 1700
- Source Dead Sea and sea salt; Brand Ocean Potion; Wet Yield (ml) 1200
- Source Celtic Sea Salt; Brand Bulk from health food store; Wet Yield (ml) 275
- Source Celtic Sea Salt; Brand Brittany Sea Salt; Wet Yield (ml) 200
- Source Sun dried ocean salt, Beaumont, CA; Brand DeSouza's Solar Sea Salt; Wet Yield (ml) 180
- Source Solar Dried New Zealand Sea Salt; Brand Comvita; Wet Yield (ml) 30
- Source Solar Dried New Zealand Sea Salt; Brand Pacific Salt; Wet Yield (ml) 24
- Source Sun dried sea salt; Brand Bulk from health food store; Wet Yield (ml) 20
- Source Mediterranean Sea Salt; Brand La Baleine; Wet Yield (ml) 10
- Source Mined near Redmond, Utah; Brand Real Salt; Wet Yield (ml) 10
- Source Ordinary sea salt; Brand Bulk from food coop; Wet Yield (ml) trace

After the Masada Dead Sea salt precipitates out, there is clear liquid left on top. If you put this liquid back into the stainless steel pot, and add lye water to it (up to pH 10), you'll get even more precipitate, probably due to the high concentration of salt. 1/4 cup of starting material in 1 liter of distilled water are suggested amounts for experimenting.

The Dead Sea Products salt is probably comparable to the Masada brand in yield. The Masada yield was measured after settling several days. The Dead Sea Products salt, and the others, were measured after settling overnight.


# Sources: SOURCES FOR DEAD SEA SALTS

It's not necessary to go to the Dead Sea to get its salt for the dry method. Try Dead Sea bath salts from a health, bath, or beauty aids store. The unscented varieties are the purest. Masada is a popular brand.

You can buy Dead Sea salts directly from Bill Kuluva at Dead Sea Minerals in NY (1-800-DEAD SEA). 1.5 kg of salt yields about 5 liters of precipitate after Mg(OH)2 is removed.

GOOD SOURCE MATERIAL FOR THE WET METHOD

Ayruveda Plus sells a clean, filtered concentrate of Salt Lake water, which is an excellent producer of m-state precipitate.

http://ayurvedaplus.com/, 1-800-588-4108, richard@ayurvedaplus.com.


# YIELD OF PRECIPITATE FROM 1 GALLON (4 LITERS) OF VARIOUS SOURCE WATERS

- Source Baker City water; Additional info Out of water filter; Wet Yield (ml) 28
- Source Mt. Carmel water; Additional info Mt. Carmel, Illinois; Wet Yield (ml) 50
- Source Medical Lake water; Additional info Medical Lake Washington; Wet Yield (ml) 20
- Source Santa Barbara Water; Additional info Santa Barbara, California; Wet Yield (ml) 200
- Source Lithia Spring; Additional info Ashland, Oregon; Wet Yield (ml) 220
- Source Salt Lake; Additional info concentrate; Wet Yield (ml) 3,500
- Source Dead Sea water; Wet Yield (ml) 6,500
- Source Pacific Ocean water; Wet Yield (ml) 1,000-2,000

# HUDSON'S ORME YIELD

- Element Ruthenium; Oz./Ton 250; Percent of Total10.34%
- Element Rhodium; Oz./Ton 1200; Percent of Total 49.62%
- Element Palladium; Oz./Ton 5; Percent of Total 0.21%
- Element Osmium; Oz./Ton 150; Percent of Total 6.20%
- Element Iridium; Oz./Ton 800; Percent of Total 33.08%
- Element Platinum; Oz./Ton 12.5; Percent of Total 0.52%
- Element Gold; Oz./Ton 1; Percent of Total 0.04%
- Element Total; Oz./Ton 2,419 ; Percent of Total 100%

# BOILING POINT AND ACID SOLUBILITY OF CERTAIN ORMUS ELEMENTS

- Element: Magnesium; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Calcium; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Cobalt; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Nickel; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Copper; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Ruthenium; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Rhodium; ORME BP: 900 C or 1066 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Palladium; ORME BP: Over 2250 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Silver; ORME BP: 1800 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Rhenium; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Osmium; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes
- Element: Iridium; ORME BP: 5400 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: No
- Element: Platinum; ORME BP: 2700 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: S
- Element: Gold; ORME BP: 425 C; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: No
- Element: Mercury; ORME BP: ?; Dry M-state dissolves in Hydrochloric Acid?: Yes

Using the information above it should be possible to devise a parting procedure to isolate m-gold, m-rhodium and m-iridium from each other and the rest of the m-state elements. We know of no one who has done this yet.

If you are using suspect dry materials to make the m-state for technical uses you may need to know the precipitation points of various elements in their metallic forms. For a table which contains this information click here http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/research/precip.htm.

If you separate the gold, iridium and platinum out by dissolving the mix in HCl, then you can part the gold from this by heating the dry precipitate over 425 degrees. This would leave mostly iridium with a bit of platinum.
You can also take the dissolved m-state and re-precipitate it. The rhodium should be the first to come out of the dried precipitate when heated to 1066 degrees Celsius.
Hudson has a great deal more information on his chemical parting methods in his Australian patent.

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# Magnesium Hydroxide: What is Magnesium Hydroxide? http://www.allh2.com/811061.html

Mg(OH)2, otherwise known as Milk of Magnesia, is commonly used as an antacid or a laxative. The mineral form of magnesium hydroxide is known as brucite. Magnesium hydroxide interferes with the absorption of folic acid and iron. The diarrhea caused by magnesium hydroxide carries away much of the body's supply of potassium, and failure to take extra potassium will lead to muscle cramps.

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Remark 1 from MDG: Here our Water from the Sea is at PH 8.2 to 8.4 ; so the only M-states Elements that will precipitate are those above this value ; following table above, our local white precipitate should be constituted of M-states Cobalt, Mercury, Nickel, Copper1, Magnesium and Silver only ; Missing Iridium, Rhenium, Chromium, Copper2, Gold, Osmium, Paladium, Platinum, Rhodium and Ruthenium.

If 'FULL ORMES' are not chemically reactive (being Cooper Pair, Diatomic clusters, with no more free bondings available), as superconductors, and can only be traped by magnetic fields, the precipitate we get is composed of 'PARTIAL ORMES' only, that still have free bonding to react to PH variation (may be constitued of 1 metallic atom plus one Deuterium atom), or are Ions of this metals ...

Then it may be the metallic Ions that affect positively our bodies, or the Deuterium coupling form, OR the 'FULL ORMES' that are attached through their Meisner Field to the elements that precipitate, and we get to absorb them along, getting their positive effect. It could explain why this precipitate must be kept far from magnetic field ; precipitate are solid form, so can not escape, but 'FULL ORMES', superconductors can, pushed away or attracted by the magnetic fields.

This is just momentary thought, I hope to discover more information about the M-state, to understand better WHAT IS IT?.

See 'Partial Ormes Theory' at http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/research/paranorm.htm

Actually if we look at Jerel's method to make Superconducting Gold (that will react to magnets), and the Video of Barry Carter where he reacts Gold to a magnet, IN THIS SUPERCONDUCTING FORM, GOLD IS NOT A WHITE POWDER, but more a dark color material.

But there is also White Powder that react to magnets, in other cases ... so the true explaination still has to be clarified (that's just my opinion).

Another theory: "Briefly stated, the theory of this category is that each ORMUS element can have different levels of Cooper pairing among its electrons ranging from having only four electrons paired up to having all electrons paired up. According to this theory, the physical properties of the ORMUS elements would range between almost metallic at the low end of Cooper pairing to the magical properties that we associate with these elements at the high end of Cooper pairing. The intermediate stages of Cooper pairing would give a mixture of m-state and metallic properties. from http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/variation.htm


Remark 2 from MDG: Reducing precipitate to white stone, by heating it on a gas boiler until all water as evaporated, and then grinding it to very fine powder (fine as talcum powder), will give the solid state of the Ormes from the Sea Water Precipitate, and kill all germs.

By heating this very fine powder to high temperature, above 1,000o Celcius, we will evaporate the Hydroxil group (Hydrogen ions).

- What are the Vaporisation point of Toxic Coumpounds, to be sure to evaporate them with enough heat ?
Mercury Hg, Melt.Point:-38.87, Boiling-Point:356.58 ; Lead Pb, Melt.Point:327.5, Boiling-Point:1740 ; Arsenic As, Melt.Point:817, Boiling-Point:613 ; ...

- If the Magnesium in the Sea Water Precipitate was 'normal' state Magnesium, heating this powder to the boiling temperature of Magnesium, 1,107oC would be a way to take it out. If nothing happen it means that it is not under metallic form !
Calcium boiling point is 1,484oC.

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## Selection of Testimonials Regarding Ingestion of Sea Water Precipitates

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